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Updated on May 12, 2009 at 06:59 pm
USARM Training
WORKER SAFETY
Why do we talk about safety and being safe so much? Because racing is a dangerous business. It is dangerous for the drivers (riders); it is dangerous for officials and corner workers. It is even dangerous for the fans. How many fans have been injured or even killed over the years in locations they considered completely safe.
From the moment you drive through the front gates into a racing facility, you must consider yourself in danger. With that in mind, it pays to always be aware of your surroundings and what is going on around you. You don't have to be out on the course to get seriously injured. Just walking through the paddock can be a hazardous proposition.
Working actually on or near the racing surface brings with it a whole new set of rules regarding your personal wellbeing. Never take anything for granted. Always be checking your environment. Look over your shoulder; keep your ears tuned to unusual sounds. Watch out for your fellow workers, especially when working around a "live" track. However, don't assume anybody is watching your back but you. Never put yourself in jeopardy for a racer. It may sound tactless, but he paid for the privilege of putting himself in harm's way. Don't you.
The best time to prepare yourself for a safe corner-working experience is before the racing starts. Don't wait until disaster strikes to plan your escape route. Go over in your mind what types of things might be needed to keep you safe during the event.
Good clothing is a must: always wear as much white as possible if you are going to be working on the side of the track (unless your position calls for other colors). It will help you to be seen by racers. Cotton is best-it breathes better, it is usually lighter weight, and it won't support combustion or melt onto your skin near heat as some man-made fabrics will. Wear a hat-it will keep the sun (or rain) from your eyes when you need to see traffic. Wear sturdy shoes-they protect your feet. Carry a whistle-use it for signaling other workers and racers. Make sure it is on a breakaway lanyard if it is around your neck. You don't want it to catch on a vehicle that is moving. Wear gloves, preferably a heat resistant type like Nomex. Leather can shrink onto your hands under severe heat conditions. Always have plenty of liquids handy, water is best. Wear sunscreen.
Now for the part that nobody wants to contemplate: CALAMITY. A vehicle traveling at a high rate of speed is approaching your position without warning and you have nanoseconds to react. What are you going to do? It is difficult to practice this scenario without actually being in the situation. However, you can do some pre planning. If you are going to be working an area you have never been before, prepare yourself. As you approach your new corner for the first time, map out entrance points and exit routes. Play "what if" and go over what could possibly happen if a racer lost control in any part of the turn. If you are going to be in a fixed position for most of the time and not moving around (such as a flagger), plan your escape route or "bailout" path. Know where you will go and what you will do before the time comes. With this in mind, always be mindful of ANYTHING that will obstruct that path. Chairs, coolers, flag stands, people (tell that photographer he cannot stand there unless he wants to get run over when you bail). When the time comes, don't wait until the last moment-leave. Hopefully, you've practiced enough in your mind that your body will react correctly. And, please, take your buddy with you. He will thank you for it. Believe me.
These are some of things to consider in making your racing experience a safer experience. Hopefully, this will also contribute to it being a more enjoyable time as well.
Presented by your USARM training Committee
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Training - Fire Extinguisher | 
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This is the first in a series of training articles you will see coming from the USARM Training Committee. We'll be picking a different topic each month to review with you through the Grid. This will also be covered in upcoming training that will be rolled out across USARM.
How often have you had to use a fire-extinguisher? Not often I hope. It's a rare situation that you would actually have to use one. Here are some of the steps to take when addressing a fire... No... you don't say... Hi Fire!
(Note: Fire extinguishers are referred to as "bottles")
A Fire extinguisher "Bottle) is made up of several parts. . .
There is the canister which is usually metal.
Inside the canister is powder. We normally use what they refer to as "ABC" powder which is used for most any type of fire you would encounter at a race track. Along with the powder the unit is pressurized with air or gas to help push the powder out of the bottle when it is used.
On the top of the canister is the screw on top that is usually referred to as the handle. There is a small meter on the side that will show you if the bottle is charged or not. Be sure to check that the gauge is pointing into the GREEN zone before you take the bottle out to the corner and replace it if it is low. Getting to a fire with a defunct bottle is like having no bottle at all.
There are two levers. The bottom lever is fixed and should be used to carry the bottle. The TOP lever is the one that moves when you "squeeze" it. It should be noted here that one of the major problems encountered by respondents is squeezing the handles before pulling the pin. This results in bending the top lever, sometimes so badly that the pin cannot be removed (rendering the bottle completely useless).
There is a Pin slipped into a hole on the handle and keeps the bottle from expelling the powder. Do NOT remove the pin unless you have to use the bottle to put out a fire.
There is a small tie that holds the pin in place. Do NOT remove that tie unless you have to use the bottle to put out a fire. The tie that holds the pin in place is fragile and will sometimes break on its own. When this happens it is very easy to discharge the bottle unintentionally (in your car, all over your feet, places you do not want this powder to be).
There is a nozzle that is usually a hard rubber. You use the nozzle to point the powder towards the fire.
If a fire starts on a racing vehicle grab your "bottle" and get to the fire as quickly as possible. Be sure to keep a safe distance between you and the fire. But do not to be too far away from the fire. 1-2 feet is recommended. Besides the wind, the pressure in the bottle is not high enough for long distance spraying. If the fire is too big to get that close, it is too dangerous to be there. The basic rule-of-thumb about using a bottle is that it will provide precious seconds for the driver / rider to escape the vehicle. Beyond that, it is up to the emergency folks to put out the fire.
(Note: Fire extinguishers are referred to as "bottles")
A Fire extinguisher "Bottle) is made up of several parts. . .
There is the canister which is usually metal.
Inside the canister is powder. We normally use what they refer to as "ABC" powder which is used for most any type of fire you would encounter at a race track. Along with the powder the unit is pressurized with air or gas to help push the powder out of the bottle when it is used.
On the top of the canister is the screw on top that is usually referred to as the handle. There is a small meter on the side that will show you if the bottle is charged or not. Be sure to check that the gauge is pointing into the GREEN zone before you take the bottle out to the corner and replace it if it is low. Getting to a fire with a defunct bottle is like having no bottle at all.
There are two levers. The bottom lever is fixed and should be used to carry the bottle. The TOP lever is the one that moves when you "squeeze" it. It should be noted here that one of the major problems encountered by respondents is squeezing the handles before pulling the pin. This results in bending the top lever, sometimes so badly that the pin cannot be removed (rendering the bottle completely useless).
There is a Pin slipped into a hole on the handle and keeps the bottle from expelling the powder. Do NOT remove the pin unless you have to use the bottle to put out a fire.
There is a small tie that holds the pin in place. Do NOT remove that tie unless you have to use the bottle to put out a fire. The tie that holds the pin in place is fragile and will sometimes break on its own. When this happens it is very easy to discharge the bottle unintentionally (in your car, all over your feet, places you do not want this powder to be).
There is a nozzle that is usually a hard rubber. You use the nozzle to point the powder towards the fire.
If a fire starts on a racing vehicle grab your "bottle" and get to the fire as quickly as possible. Be sure to keep a safe distance between you and the fire. But do not to be too far away from the fire. 1-2 feet is recommended. Besides the wind, the pressure in the bottle is not high enough for long distance spraying. If the fire is too big to get that close, it is too dangerous to be there. The basic rule-of-thumb about using a bottle is that it will provide precious seconds for the driver / rider to escape the vehicle. Beyond that, it is up to the emergency folks to put out the fire.
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On your way to the incident grab the metal or plastic pin at the top of the bottle on the handle and twist it. That twist will break the tie that holds the pin in place. Note: Be sure to hang onto the PIN. Keep it on your finger or slip it quickly into your pocket. That Pin will be used again when we get the bottles recharged. When you get to the incident point the nozzle towards the base of the fire and pull up on the bottom lever. This will release the powder. You can use a sweeping motion moving the bottle left and right to get the powder across the entire base of the fire. The powder will basically suffocate the fire and it should go out. |
The important part is to be sure to put out the fire at the base first. It's also recommended to shoot the powder in a series of short blasts but that depends on the fire. Using the short blasts allows you a second or two to see if the fire is going out. It also saves on the powder just in case the fire erupts again or there are other small fires that started - i.e. grass or something close by. However, don't be stingy with the powder. Some of the powder can lodge in the valve of the bottle and allows the remaining charge of gas to escape preventing further use. So... "use it or lose it".
So to make it easy to remember here are a few words that might help you remember what to do.
A helpful suggestion is to try to be up-wind from the fire. That means... try to ensure the wind doesn't blow the powder back into your face.
The first priority in any fire situation is YOUR safety! Don't put yourself at risk - EVER! A racecar driver has all kinds of safety equipment surrounding them - roll cage, on board fire system, Nomex Drivers suit, etc. Your best safety mechanism is your brain and you don't have any other protection between you and the fire so here is one other suggestion... When you are working a corner we always encourage only cotton clothing. Cotton will burn away but anything with nylon or synthetic materials can actually melt onto your skin.
Another point to make here is that if you have to go to a fire, your communicator or another corner will be watching. They will call into Race Control to keep them updated on the status and to request back-up emergency response.
So.. Safety first. YOUR Safety first!
Your USARM Training Committee
So to make it easy to remember here are a few words that might help you remember what to do.
| TPAS - Twist, Pull, Aim, Shoot Twist the Pin Pull the Pin out and hold on to it Aim the nozzle Shoot the powder at the fire |
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A helpful suggestion is to try to be up-wind from the fire. That means... try to ensure the wind doesn't blow the powder back into your face.
The first priority in any fire situation is YOUR safety! Don't put yourself at risk - EVER! A racecar driver has all kinds of safety equipment surrounding them - roll cage, on board fire system, Nomex Drivers suit, etc. Your best safety mechanism is your brain and you don't have any other protection between you and the fire so here is one other suggestion... When you are working a corner we always encourage only cotton clothing. Cotton will burn away but anything with nylon or synthetic materials can actually melt onto your skin.
Another point to make here is that if you have to go to a fire, your communicator or another corner will be watching. They will call into Race Control to keep them updated on the status and to request back-up emergency response.
So.. Safety first. YOUR Safety first!
Your USARM Training Committee
